John and I thoroughly enjoyed a week of biking from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC on the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal Towpath trails in the spring of 2023. We were keen to experience more of the rail trails in the US, so decided to bike the 238-mile-long Katy Trail in Missouri – the longest rail trail in the country.
The Katy Trail in Katy Trail State Park runs through central Missouri from Clinton in the west to Machens in the east (12 miles east of St. Charles) on the former Missouri-Kansas-Texas rail line.
As such, so we had no preconceived notions of eye-popping landscapes. For some, biking the Katy Trail would be considered boring – as it’s mostly flat and there’s a lot of farm country to bike through.
But when you change your attitude, you can have one heck of an amazing experience. Everything was new to us – the landscapes, the history, the incredible bird life – and we met a lot of very friendly people.
We chose to fly into St. Louis, Uber to St. Charles (all of a 10-minute ride way), spend the night, and then shuttle with our friends and rental bikes to the far end of the trail in Clinton the next morning. Our friends were able to park their car for free at a lot beside the Bike Shop Cafe, so everything was easy and seamless to organize.
Described below is our experience biking the Katy Trail. We all had a great time with the only complaint the lack of good food (fried food for a week is not the norm for any of us) and how few places there were some days to buy anything.
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Best time to bike the Katy Trail
We spoke with the fellow who runs the bike store in St. Charles. He recommends cycling in May and again in September and October when the colours along the trail start to pop. The summer months are hot – especially August. Perhaps, if you’re used to the heat, you’d be okay.
May was a great month to bike the Katy Trail as everything felt clean, fresh and alive with wildflowers and bird song.
Mileages on the Katy Trail and the spur trails
The two following mileage charts may aid in planning your Katy Trail biking trip.
Because the Katy Trail was built on railroad tracks – roughly parallel to the Missouri River, it’s mostly flat. I found any elevation changes – save for biking to the B&B in Augusta to be minimal.
Day 1: Clinton to Sedalia
Distance we cycled: 37.5 miles to the Sedalia Depot + 0.5 miles to Hotel Bothwell
Distance to St. Charles from Sedalia: 187.6 miles
Where we stayed: Hotel Bothwell – caters to bikers (you can take your bike up to your room) but expect a very basic breakfast.
More overnight options:American Inn Sedalia, Best Western State Fair Inn– the Katy Trail Bunk House, camping at the Missouri State Fairgrounds, Southside Country Cottage (AirbnB) – best for a group.
Experience
We didn’t start biking the Katy Trail till about 12:30 as it’s about a 3.75-hour shuttle from St. Charles with a bathroom break. It was hot – but that was a heck of a lot better than rainy.
The Katy Trail bike ride is never difficult, even when you “climb” to the high point on the Katy Trail the first day. Much of it is arrow-straight – so boring in some people’s books. As this was all new country for the four of us, we were happy to be out enjoying the sound and sight of birds we rarely if ever see.
The first day’s ride through what was once tall grass prairie would be considered the least interesting part of the trail by many – but with so much bird song, we stopped a lot – holding up the Merlin app trying to figure out all the new birds.
Interestingly, there’s a plan to restore the trail corridor to pre-settlement conditions. Perhaps in a few years you’ll see more native wildflowers and the greater prairie chickens.
After 90 minutes of biking, we were all hungry but the best we could do was a gas station we spied from the trail – something that would be a common theme while on the Katy Trail bike ride. After cold drinks and ice cream taken in the shade, we were ready to finish the ride to Sedalia. We did stop for a photo op at the high point of the trail looking over fields of I don’t know what.
The final mile was on the streets of Sedalia as we made our way to Hotel Bothwell – a very popular place with cyclists and just a block away from Fitters 5th Street Pub.
Katy Trail pictures from Clinton to Sedalia
Day 2: Sedalia to Boonville on the Katy Trail
Distance we cycled: 35.3 miles
Distance to St. Charles from Boonville: 152.3 miles
Where we stayed: Hotel Frederick (would highly recommend) and it comes with a Continental breakfast. They have a room in the hotel where you can lock bikes.
Other accommodation options: Grand Victorian Manor B&B, Isle of Capri Casino & Hotel and the Katy Retreat for a large crowd
Experience: It was a beautiful day for biking the Katy Trail. The initial 10 – 12 miles took us through a lot of thick green forest as you’ll see below. At Milepost 213.2 you pass one of the last remaining signal lights in Katy Trail State Park.
We stopped in Pilot Grove for lunch as we spied a gas station from the trail as we cycled in. Ice cream, cold drinks, salted cashews and chips fueled us to Boonville.
I loved the big skies and expansive fields planted with crops after Pilot Grove. Note that the 11.5 miles to Boonville is the “hardest part of the Katy Trail.“
Cross over Interstate 70 at Milepost 196. It feels good to leave that noise behind. At Milepost 199.2 look through the trees over to the Missouri River bluffs – and then enjoy the final few miles to the Hotel Frederick – in a great location just a half block away from the Missouri River.
Nearby, you can eat at the Palace Restaurant – nothing fancy but very friendly.
Katy Trail bike pictures between Sedalia and Boonville
Day 3: Boonville to Hartsburg, Missouri
Distance we biked: 38.2 miles
Distance to St. Charles from Hartsburg: 214.1 miles
Where we stayed: At a 2-bedroom Airbnb in Hartsburg with a washer, dryer and safe bike storage but you’ll need to bring breakfast. There are a few places to eat in Hartsburg – but beware of what days restaurants are open.
Where to find a latte: Look for the Meriwether Cafe and Bike Shop just off the trail in Rocheport.
More accommodation options: We passed the Katy Trail Bed & Breakfast just outside of Rocheport on the way to St. Charles.
Experience: Today was a great day of biking on the Katy Trail, save for a tire I had to blow up every mile for the last 10 miles in the rain.
The day starts with a bike ride over the Missouri River. It’s worth a stop on the bridge to watch the crazy currents below. After New Franklin, head for Rocheport with tree or bluff-lined views of fields, grain elevators, and agricultural equipment.
Plan to stop in Rocheport for a latte, breakfast, baked goods…whatever catches your fancy. It’s the only café right on the Katy Trail until you reach St. Charles.
It’s worth the very short detour to see the only old-clay tile grain elevator in the field on the former site of Pearsons at Milepost 184.5. Next bike through a couple of conservation areas to reach a stunning tunnel, complete with a blackened ceiling. Trains passed through this tunnel from 1893 – 1986.
The next part of the Katy Trail was one of my favourites. The bike ride from Rocheport to McBain is often within sight of the Missouri River. Enjoy beautiful biking with the Manitou Bluffs towering over the trail. There are lots of benches to take in the view. Enjoy wildflowers in season but beware of the poison ivy. We also saw a southern black racer snake disappearing into the bushes on this part of the bike ride.
Look for signage along this section detailing what Lewis and Clark were doing in this area. Look for the marked cave by Torbett Spring where they hung out – though you aren’t allowed to enter it. There’s also Native American pictographs high on the bluffs – but you need to be looking for them to see them.
When you reach McBaine, you’ll see the MKT Nature & Fitness spur trail. It travels 8.8 miles to Columbia where there are lots of accommodation and dining options.
We continued biking to Hartsburg – a further 16 miles away through farm country. We hardly stopped as it started to rain hard. The good news – there was a hose Airbnb and a dryer at the Airbnb, so in no time we and our bikes were clean again.
Katy Trail pictures between Boonville and Hartsburg
Day 4: Hartsburg to Rhineland
Distance we cycled: 48.8 miles
Distance to St. Charles from Rhineland: 65.3 miles
Where we stayed: Doll House B&B – no dinner nearby so we brought from Holzhauser’s Bar & Grill and used the host’s air fryer to reheat. A great breakfast is provided. It’s just a few hundred feet off the Katy Trail – and it’s very friendly.
Other nearby options: Second Chance Landing on the Katy Trail, Shining Hope Guest House, and White Wolf Inn.
Experience: Today’s bike ride on the Katy Trail was the longest one yet. My impression is that most people cross the bridge near North Jefferson to spend the night in Jefferson City. We prefer smaller places – hence our choice to stay in Hartsburg.
Much of the biking for the first 20 miles was through lush forest that looked like it belonged in the Costa Rica rain forest.
On arrival in Tebbetts, we were back in farm country. Going forward there were a few highlights – like the giant boulders, and watching a boat plow up the Missouri River.
We also stopped in Portland to order dinner at Holzhauser’s Bar & Grill – home to self-declared Trump lovers and pool tables. We had a very interesting conversation, especially about tornadoes and catfish – and left with onion rings and grilled cheese sandwiches for dinner.
It was another 10 miles through farm country to Rhineland (where there are NO restaurants). The sky darkened but fat raindrops held off until just seconds after we’d unloaded our bike at the Doll’s House B&B.
There are a couple of lovely decks off the second floor of the B&B that were perfect for enjoying the lemonade and cookies provided by the kind owner. She also offered her air fryer to us – so we didn’t have to eat a soggy dinner.
Katy Trail pictures between Hartsburg and Rhineland
Day 5: Rhineland to Augusta
Distance we biked: 38.5 miles
Distance from Augusta to St. Charles: 26.8 miles
Where we stayed: Lindenhof Bed and Breakfast (though up for sale summer 2024)
Where to eat along the route: There aren’t many choices aside from Marthasville. Check out the Rowdy Rooster (a great menu), KT Caboose and the gas station off the trail by the highway for ice cream, cols drinks and snacks.
More accommodation options: H.S. Clay House B&B, Applegate B&B,
Experience: We’re in corn country immediately after leaving the B&B in Rhineland. About halfway to Marthasville we pass through Peers where we stop to admire photos of the summer prairie garden. Before railway development, much of the land would look exactly like the photo.
Marthasville is a cute village. If your timing is right, I’d recommend a stop at the Rowdy Rooster. The menu was full of things we all wanted to eat – but the restaurant was closed. Again, we made do with gas station food.
On this section of the Katy Trail – we rain into more downed trees. I was impressed at how quickly they’d send someone to dispatch with them.
My one regret for the day is that we didn’t take the short detour 0.4 mile detour to the Daniel Boom Monument – where he was first buried.
The eight miles of biking on the Katy Trail between Dutzow and Augusta was a treat. Fields of bright yellow wildflowers were a wonderful addition to the pastoral landscape.
On arrival in Augusta, you have to climb a large hill to get into the business section of town where you’ll find B&B’s, wineries (they’re good) and local businesses – though beware short hours and closures in non-peak season.
We all loved Augusta – the beautiful houses, gardens, big trees and what a treat it was to sit at an winery after a hot shower sipping a glass of wine.
Katy Trail pictures between Rhineland and Augusta
Day 6: Augusta to St. Charles
Distance we biked: 26.8 miles to St Charles
Experience: The last day of biking the Katy Trail wasn’t that interesting, partly on account of grey skies and light rain. It took us under two hours to get back to St. Charles. The closer we got to St. Charles, the more built up it was – as would be expected. I’ll take flat farmland biking over city skylines any day.
There is the option to bike another 12 miles to Black Walnut and Machens – which would have been nice from the point of view of completing the entire Katy Trail. But we were told by people that did it, we wouldn’t miss a thing.
In St. Charles we hugged our friends goodbye. They had a two-day drive back to northern Ontario and we had a flight to catch. The Katy Trail isn’t quite as interesting a trail as the combo we did from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC, but it filled in lots of blanks on my mental map, and we were all glad to have biked it.
More places to stay on the Katy Trail
St. Charles
Boone’s Lick Trail Inn – pricey with nor breakfast and very noisy
Country Inn & Suites on Historic Main Street
Inn Frenchtown Bed & Breakfast
Best Western Plus – The Charles Hotel
Hermann
Cycle Inn at Hermann – 116 E. 5th Street, Hermann Ph: 573-486-2000
Rocheport
McKittrick
Joey’s Birdhouse B&B, 496 Sterline, McKittrick Ph: 314-698-9152 or email [email protected] or [email protected]. They charge $125+ tax per room per night. Appears to come with breakfast.
Marthasville
Happy Apples Bicycle Bunk House – Four bedrooms. Rent by the bedroom or the whole place. 201 S. Three Street PH; 314-323-1151
Katy Haus – One bedroom but can sleep up to four people.
Shuttles and tours on the Katy Trail
Crossroads Bike Tours – They offer guided and self-guided tours.
Timberline Adventures – Offers guided tours.
Noble Invention and Bike Touring – Self-guided bike tours.
Katy and Rock Island Trail Bike Tours & Shuttle Ph: 417-372-9220
Katy Trail Bike Tours – They will shuttle you to or from Clinton and most other cities along the Katy Trail. They offer car moving services too.
American Bicycle Journeys – They will shuttle to anywhere along the Katy or Rock Island Trails.
Bike Stop Cafe – Offers bike rentals, luggage moving and shuttles. We used them – and all good except for the fact that our driver texted regularly while driving I-70. Not cool – and illegal.
A group bike ride across Missouri
If you want to bike with a group on the Katy Trail check out the BigBam ride. It’s offered June 2 – 8, 2024 and October 6 – 12, 2024.
You can decide how many days you want to ride. It’s not a race and it’s meant to be fun. The idea is to get everyone out – no matter what your age. There are free drinks, bike mechanic support and shuttles too.
What kind of bike is best for the Katy Trail?
We rented bikes from the Bike Stop Cafe in St. Charles. We rented comfort hybrids with upright handlebars – which I liked. My friend Jo rented an ebike – which she loved and Ted rented a gravel bike with a dropped handlebar. He didn’t like the dropped handlebars, so be sure to rent what you’re used to.
Below is a picture of another bike – with quite skinny tires. Though the trail is gravel, it’s mostly very hardpacked unless it rains hard for some time.
Nature while biking the Katy Trail
The bird life – at least in the spring along the Katy Trail is outstanding. My husband uses the Merlin app and loves it for discovering the birds he can hear but can’t see. Some favourites on this trip were the indigo buntings, dickcissels,
You’ll also find snakes on the Katy Trail. The one in the picture below – a baby copperhead is poisonous but the black racer, which we also saw is not. I understand there are timber rattlers too – but most people don’t see any snakes at all.
We found after we saw a snake that any of the small branches on the Katy Trail – looked like snakes, so there was a lot of swerving going on.
Box turtles are also a common sight while biking along the Katy Trail. Unfortunately we saw one that appeared to be run over by a cyclist. It made me sick to see, so please exercise caution and be prepared to stop quickly.
Where to park on the Katy Trail
Clinton – Sedalia: Clinton Community Center, Henry County Fairgrounds, Clinton Trailhead (TH), Calhoun TH, Windsor TH, Green Ridge TH
Sedalia – Boonville: Sedalia TH fairgrounds, Sedalia TH depot, Clifton City TH, Pilot Grove TH, Prairie Lick TH
Boonville – North Jefferson: Boonville TH at Depot, Boonville TH on North Bank, Katy Roundhouse, New Franklin TH, Rocheport TH, McBaine TH, Department of Conservation River access in Providence, Hartsburg TH
North Jefferson – McKittrick: North Jefferson TH, Tebbetts TH, Mokane TH, Portland TH
McKittrick – Augusta: McKittrick TH, Treloar TH, Marthasville TH, Dutzow TH
Augusta – St. Charles: Augusta TH, Matson TH, Defiance TH, Busch Greenway TH, Chesterfield – Highway 64 Bridge, Greens Bottom TH, Page-364 Bridge TH, St. Charles TH
Bike shops and rentals on the Katy Trail
Map of our Katy Trail bike ride
- Click on the three dots near the top right-hand corner to email a copy of the map.
Interested in more great bike rides?
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