Besides Volcanoes National Park, several National parks on the Big Island of Hawaii highlight not only nature, but often focus on the history of the island. On a recent trip I visited three of these national parks and monuments in Hawaii.
1. Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park
We stumbled upon Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park by accident on first full day on the island. We found it later in the day, just about the time they were closing. Since we didn’t have much time for a visit, we returned the following day to explore the site beyond the Visitor Center and the short paved path surrounding it.
The park highlights the ingenuity of the ancient people of Hawaii who lived in the barren land of lava rock near the ocean. They developed a system of working and living in balance with their environment, something the present-day state of Hawaii still strives to keep.
They used ancient fishing skills, including the building fishponds, and the knowledge of the location of precious fresh water that flows into the pools throughout the park.
And after they harvested fish and other food from the sea and the ponds, then traded their surplus with extended family living in the uplands for other staples like taro, breadfruit, and mulberry.
During our second, longer, visit, we took the mile-long trail through the park. We walked past two fish ponds built over 600 years ago, out to the Aiopio fish trap pond, an artificial enclosure along the shoreline, and finally, to Honokōhau Beach. We spent most of our time at this pristine beach, where I saw my first green sea turtle on the island, swimming along the rocky volcanic shore.
2. Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park offered more stories of ancient Hawaiians.
Defined by the Great Wall, Pā Puʻuhonua, a massive L-shaped rock wall and the ocean, Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau is still an important Hawaiian ceremonial site. Besides the Great Wall, other ceremonial structures include the Ancient Heiau ʻĀleʻaleʻa Heiau and the Hale o Keawe, a traditional hale poki or consecrated house.
Hale o Keawe is the largest structure at the site, the structure that gave the place much of its spiritual power. In ancient times, locals used it as a royal mausoleum, where they kept the remains of 23 deified high chiefs or aliʻi. The powerful mana (divine power) of these bones heightened the spiritual power of the place, protected by Lono, the God of life.
A Place of Protection
Because of its immense spiritual power, Pu’uhonua o Honaunau was a sanctuary, protecting everyone within its boundaries, even those who broke kapu, the sacred law ancient Hawaiians lived by.
Kapu, the ancient law, regulated fishing, planting, and harvesting, while also enforcing the social order. Breaking kapu disturbed the stability of society, and the punishment was often death.
However, any fugitive who had broken kapu could seek refuge and forgiveness within the walls of the Puʻuhonua. They would have to make it there, though, which meant running while being chased often from far away, but if they succeeded, they were forgiven and free to return to their lives.
Besides forgiveness for breaking kapu, Pu’uhonua offered refuge and safety to families (even enemies) during times of war. After the war ended, no matter who won, everyone was free to return to their home unharmed.
The concept of refuge in Hawaii has roots in the larger Polynesian culture. A ruling chief of a kingdom could declare certain lands or heiau (sacred structures) as puʻuhonua (place of refuge), and as long as they kept power, these designations would remain in force.
A Modern Place To Learn About Ancient History
Many pu’uhonua existed in ancient Hawaii, but Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau is the one of the largest and best preserved. Locals respect the place and ask visitors to do the same.
Although the sacred temple, Hale o Keawe we see today, is not the original, and the bones of the ancient chiefs were removed, native Hawaiians still believe that the mana of the place remains, and sometimes leave offerings here.
When we visited, I noticed a group of local high school students on a field trip, learning about the history of the place. I noticed their teacher was telling them the stories in Hawaiian, not in English.Watching them, I noticed all the kids listening, asking questions, overall being interested. I believe learning their own history in their native language has a greater impact.
3. Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site
Another place we learned about Hawaiian history was a large temple built by King Kamehameha I on top of a hill overlooking the ocean at Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.
Here, I learned the story of the unification of a nation, the beginning of the Hawaiian Kingdom, in the late 1700s, an epic story of two great warrior chiefs – Kamehameha and his first cousin, Keoua Ku’ahu’ula.
High above the coast, on top of a hill, the temple Pu’ukohola Heiau is the last major heiau on the Hawaiian islands. Built for and dedicated by King Kamehameha I, it marked the start of the unification of all the Hawaiian islands under his rule. Since the unification was successful, the temple continues to be used to commemorate the event.
Native Hawaiians still celebrate the beginning of the nation here, every August.
There Are More National Parks on the Big Island Worth Visiting than the famous Volcanoes National Park
Although the Big Island of Hawaii is famous for Volcanoes National Park, and you can’t leave the island without visiting this park, several smaller National Parks are also worth a visit to learn about the history of the Hawaiian Islands.
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