Visiting Bali for a Wellness and Yoga Retreat
Though my travel blog has often been compared to Eat, Pray, Love, since 2009 when it was launched, I never visited Bali until November 2023 when I went for about 16 days. My plan was to visit Bali for a wellness and Yoga retreat. I didn’t join an organized Bali wellness retreat or a Bali Yoga retreat, I created my own by staying in two places: first, a private pool villa in Penestanan, near Ubud, and then the amazing Hotel Tugu Bali in Canggu.
As I was going to Bali for the first time, I kept all my notes and created a brief Bali for Beginners Guide, below, at the end of this post.
Ubud: A wellness and Yoga retreat hub
The name Ubud comes from the Balinese word Ubad, which literally means medicine. The region has long been known as a centre for medicine and healing, partially because of the abundance of medicinal plants and herbs that grow there.
Even today, with tourism in Bali booming, Ubud is still quieter and more peaceful than other areas, and attracts people who are drawn to the peaceful, healing, vibes and the wellness, Yoga, healthy eating, and spa opportunities.
In Udud, there is a Yoga Studio, spa, health food cafe or restaurant, and wellness resort on just about every corner. The place is literally teeming with them, both in town and in the surrounding villages and countryside. Udub is definitely the place to go if you want a wellness vacation. There are endless possibilities.
Locally owned, Ubud Yoga Centre is a warm and inviting centre that is also architecturally stunning and has great forest ravine views. The expansive centre includes a store full of hand-made and spiritually themed merchandise, an open-air cafe featuring a fantastic menu of healthy and delicious food, and several spacious, airy yoga studios.
I took most of my classes at Ubud Yoga Centre, never missing Kundalini Yoga with GuruMaa Savitri Devi. I knew her in Toronto many years ago before she trained as a Yoga teacher and returned to her roots in Bali. GuruMaa Savitri Devi is a very inspiring teacher who beautifully bridges east and west. She understands the spirituality of the east (India, Bali) and can also speak to western students in a language they understand.
I also tried out several spas such as Botanica Spa – where I had a massage, scrub and flower bath – Starchild Spa, and the spa at Jungle Fish, Chapung Sebali.
As I was only in Ubud for two weeks, I had a chance to try out just a few places in each category (spa, restaurant, Yoga studio), but rest assured there are many other worthwhile and recommended places to go.
You can also partake in local and traditional healing ceremonies, as I did at Pura Tirta Empul. Here you can partake in a water purification ceremony at the temple, which dates from 926. The temple has several holy springs which are said to have been created by the god Indra and believed to be blessed water that could purify those who bathe there. Read more here about what you need to know before undertaking the ceremony.
More reading on Breathedreamgo about Bali and Indonesia
Private pool villa in Ubud
I wanted to stay in Penestanan, a village on the edge of Ubud, largely because my friend and Yoga teacher GuruMaa Savitiri Devi lives there. I also knew I wanted to treat myself to a private pool villa, so that focused my search. I settled on Villa Nirvana and was extremely happy with my choice! It was perfectly located on a lane in Penestanan and everything was walking distance – I could even walk into Ubud in about 20 minutes. While it’s true that cars cannot use the lane, I was picked up by Villa Nirvana in a golf cart, and was able to call Gojek or Grab bikes (scooters) right to the hotel reception.
I loved Villa Nirvana for many reasons. Villa Nirvana is basically a resort made up of private pool villas, each completely separate from the other so that you are basically almost unaware of your neighbours.
There is a reception, a garden, a spa and a small restaurant. Breakfast is included and they will deliver right to your pool villa. I ate a big plate of fruit and fresh juice every morning by my pool!
I found that having a pool villa supported my wellness journey as I had room for Yoga, a small kitchen, and of course a pool to sink into several times per day! I started every morning with a swim – and as my villa was private, there was no need for a bathing suit so I swam naked. Heavenly!
Penestanan
Fate brought me directly to Penestanan and I am so glad it did! I loved this neighbourhood, which has an old village feeling. Much of it is criss-crossed with charming narrow lanes, and you can walk a long way using these shady lanes. The lanes are dotted with small resorts, villas, Yoga studios, lovely cafes and of course houses, local businesses, temples, and shrines.
Although there are many amenities for tourists, it does not feel touristy. It has not lost its authentic flavour and I saw many examples of the culture of Bali such as rituals and processions.
There are too many great places in Penestanan to mention so I will single out a few favourites:
Yellow Flower Cafe is on a narrow lane and has a charming decor, all made of bamboo and wood, with a thatch roof, part fairy tale and part hobbit house. The food is healthy and delicious, a fusion of Indonesian and western dishes and flavours, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
Alchemy is a cafe, store, and (across the street) a Yoga shala. The cafe is also a co-working space, and has a bright, spacious interior with a very tantalizing display of cakes, sweets, and ice creams – with loads of gluten-free choices.
Zest is a bit like a movie set, dramatic and spectacular, with forest canopy views and a very extensive menu that focuses on the healthy and delicious.
Cafe Vespa is a casual meeting place in the centre of Penestanan. They serve gluten-free pizza, which makes it one of my favourites. Though truth be told, I think Ubud is the gluten-free centre of the universe.
Lala Lily. My first meal in Bali was at this small cafe in a lily pond! Family run, it serves tasty local specialties like Nasi Goreng and Gado Gado.
Intuitive Flow Yoga. A lovely Yoga shala with a warm and airy feeling, sweeping views and a community vibe.
Luxury wellness retreat in Ubud
Ubud has more than its fair share of luxury wellness retreats. Five Elements, Maya Ubud, Amandari, and Como Shambala are just some of the top-quality options you will find in the serene rural areas surrounding Ubud. Here amongst peaceful rice fields, flowing rivers, and lush forests, many of the finer spas and resorts are located.
I chose to spend a day at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, a spectacular property on the edge of town. As always, the Four Seasons hits the sweet spot between elegant, tasteful, super luxurious, and also culturally relevant. The resort hotel sits on an expansive and meticulously well-groomed property, with a river flowing through it, surrounded by forest – so you always feel you are in the lap of nature.
Though 25 years old, the Four Seasons Sayan still feels fresh, especially because of the inspired architecture and design – the use of warm woods and rounded shapes give it a natural, organic style that flows naturally with the surroundings. Everything is gorgeous – the pool, the spa, the soaking pools, the villas, the open-air dining room. All of it invites you to enjoy and relax.
I had a Muladhara Chakra ceremony / massage and it was a great experience, deeper and more meaningful and relaxing than your average massage. It combines a cleansing Balinese smoke ceremony and deep slow massage using locally grown ginger and cinnamon, blended with vetivert, patchouli and jatamansi oils.
I also tried a very unique experience called Sacred Nap. A Buddhist nun, Fera Wati, helped us relax in an aerial silk hammock suspended from the ceiling of the bamboo Dharma Shanti Bale. While she quietly narrated stories from the life of Buddha, I fell asleep listening to the sounds of nature, feeling cocooned, and gently rocking.
At lunch time, I tried the Sattvic Menu, which though limited, includes foods that are light, healthy, tasty and gluten free. It’s not always easy to find gluten free food in Asia, so I was very relieved. But Four Seasons Sayan also excels at cultural authenticity. In the evening, I enjoyed a traditional dance performance with a gamelan orchestra, followed by a magnificent buffet of Indonesian food.
Hotel Tugu Bali
After I left Ubud, I spent a couple of days at the incredible Hotel Tugu Bali in Canggu. Whatever you think about Canggu you can toss out because none of it applies to the Hotel Tugu Bali. This 5-star hotel was built long before Canggu became a tourist destination, when it was surrounded by jungle and there was nothing between it and the beach.
As you enter along a long, covered wooden walkway overtop a pool of water, you leave modern life behind and enter another world. The cavernous lobby is a treasure trove of Indonesian culture. In fact, the entire hotel preserves the art and culture of Indonesia and Bali. It’s literally a living art museum, while also being a very comfortable and luxurious hotel. I have never been anywhere remotely like the Hotel Tugu Bali. There is absolutely nothing predictable or commonplace here.
To describe Hotel Tugu Bali, and give you a sense of what it’s like, it’s very hard to know where to start! The massive wooden lobby is built in a traditional Balinese style, and the various villas, suites, and bungalows are spread out around the property, connected by stone walkways, lush with plants and trees, giving it the feeling of a traditional (but very posh) village.
Each villa, suite, or bungalow is very unique, and a couple of them are truly astounding in size, design, and amenities. I was lucky to be able to tour most of them. The Puri Le Mayeur Villa and the Walter Spies Pavilion are works of art. They have private pools, dining areas, and romantic vistas … if you truly need a spectacular stay one day for a very special occasion, either of these will fit the bill.
I stayed in the Dedari Suite. Entering the suite through an antique door, I found a small tropical garden bordering a sunken bathtub behind wooden shutters. My large suite featured a canopy bed and a private pool, but I loved that dreamy bathtub and my open-air bathroom.
There are several unique and inspiring dining experiences at Hotel Tugu Bali. IWA Restaurant is a culinary journey through Indonesia, and Ji features traditional Japanese foods. My first meal at Hotel Tugu Bali was at the rooftop restaurant watching the sunset over the ocean and eating fresh sushi.
Bale Sutra is housed in a 300-year-old Chinese temple. The temple, brought by Chinese immigrants to Bali a long time ago, was saved from near-demolition by the Tugu Hotels & Restaurants owner, and was transported and reconstructed in its entirety at Hotel Tugu Bali.
But my favourite Hotel Tugu Bali experience was to have high tea in a building called Bale Puputan, a kind of museum filled with historic artefacts and antique treasures. Bale Puputan is a tribute to the Puputan War and the Balinese heroes who stood against Dutch colonialist invaders in 1906 and 1908. I ate at a massive marble table that was used by the Dutch general in Bali to host royal guests. This experience helped me learn about the culture of Bali – and I was glad to see that the hotel offers tours to guests that give them cultural context, and not just a five-star luxury experience.
Though it is a magnificent place, I found Hotel Tugu Bali to have a kind of enveloping atmosphere which I found to be relaxing and healing. The spa is lovely and I had a wonderful massage, but even my own bathtub was just as healing – as I luxuriated in daily flower baths. I watched the sunset over the ocean from the top floor restaurant, and briefly walked on the beach, but otherwise left Canggu – with its loud bars, and Australian surfers, and souvenir shops – outside the property and almost completely ignored it.
A brief stay at Hotel Tugu Bali was a perfect way to appreciate the local culture and end a perfect first trip to Bali. Thanks so much to the wonderful staff, who always remembered my name and favourite drink. I never wanted to leave. Hotel Tugu Bali is a member of Secret Retreats, a collection of very special, unique hospitality experiences in Asia including resorts, hotels, restaurants, yachts, and much more.
Bali Beginners Guide
As I was going to Bali for the first time, I did some research and kept track of the steps I took to prepare for my trip. Apparently I did a good job because my driver, waiting for me at the airport in Bali, said no one he had waited for had ever passed through the airport faster than me. I hope my brief Bali Beginners Guide helps you, too.
- Research destinations and your itinerary. Bali is very different from place to place and you must decide if you want an experience that is characterized by quiet, busy, wellness, party, food, etc. There are areas (mostly in the north) that are still very authentic and areas (mostly in the south) that are extremely crowded, commercial, developed and touristy. If you are looking for a wellness and Yoga retreat, Ubud – or the area surrounding Ubud – is your best bet.
- Buy Indonesia Visa online. You can get your Visa in advance, which helps you get through the airport more quickly. This is the official link.
- Four days before your trip, you can do your Indonesia Custom Declaration online, also helping you to breeze through the airport. Use this link.
- There are a lot of ATM scams in Bali, so be careful. Use only ATMs at the airport and in banks. Recommended: BMC banks or Central Kuta Money Exchange. I exchanged US dollars at the airport and also withdrew cash at the ATM at the airport.
- Set up Wise with an Indonesia account and order a debit card. I transferred money from my Canadian account into my Wise Indonesia account and used my Wise debit card to withdraw Indonesia rupiah – saving myself a lot of money in bank fees and currency conversion charges. Use my Wise affiliate link here and get your first transfer free.
- Download Grab and Gojek apps for arranging transportation. You can connect these apps to your WIse account so you can pay in Indonesia rupiah.
- Buy an Airalo e-sim for Indonesia You can use my code MARIEL3816 to get $3 off.
Language and food
Learn about the language. Bahasa Indonesia is the official language of Indonesia, and Balinese is the language of Bali.
- Good morning – selamat pagi
- How are you – apa kabar
- Please – tolong
- Thanks – suksma (Balinese) or terimah kasi (Bahasa Indonesia)
Learn about the food and some of the most common traditional dishes.
- Fish – ikan
- Rice – nasi
- Duck – bebek
- Seafood – sari laut
- Ikan goreng – fried fish
- Lawar kuwir – slow-cooked duck
- Rujak – traditional fruit salad
- Nasi lalapan – rice, tofu, sambal, veggies
- Burbur injin – black rice pudding
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