Koh Samui was once a small fishing community framed by white sandy beaches, coral reefs, and palm trees. While the beauty of Thailand’s second largest island still exists, the fishermen have long been replaced with luxury hotels, posh spas and a vivid nightlife.
On the island today you will find a cosmopolitan mix of independent budget travelers staying in simple bamboo huts for weeks as well as celebrities dropping by on a weekend to stay at private luxury pool villas and resorts. Koh Samui is also a very popular place to get married.
When to Visit Koh Samui: Best Season
Who doesn’t want to stay in paradise, close to beautiful azure beaches, sunshine pretty much all around the year and eat yummy Thai food? The weather in Koh Samui is warm, tropical and humid all year around. The average temperature is around 28 degrees Celsius with the most rainfall between September and November. The driest months are from December to February when prices tend to peak as well.
If you come after February, chances are that you will find lower prices, especially on accommodation.
I lived in Koh Samui in March and April which is still a great time to visit, but temperatures get really hot around 30 degrees and more and air-conditioning is needed! From May onwards, you get the typically sunny mornings and thunderstorms in the afternoon.
Travel Tip: Bargaining on prices with the landlord on the spot is always a good option too, especially if you want to stay for a couple of days or weeks.
Getting to Koh Samui
By Plane
You can directly fly into Koh Samui with Bangkok Airways and Scoot, which are the two only airlines operating.
By Boat
Alternatively, you can take a ferry to Koh Samui which takes about 1-2 hours depending on what boat you take. Several companies are operating at different times.
Check for the location of the pier before you book as there are several that are 30-45 minutes drive apart. Most boats leave from Nathon Pier which is quite a ride away from Chaweng for example, so you need to organise your transportation to get there too.
Combined Plan/Bus/Ferry Tickets
Another option is to buy a combined ticket from Surat Thani Airport to Koh Samui which includes a minivan or bus shuttle to the pier and the ferry ride. You can buy a ticket on the spot upon touching down at the airport.
Also, AirAsia offers combined plane/bus/ferry tickets starting from Bangkok. Lastly, if you’re on a very strict budget, there is always the option to take an overnight train or bus from Bangkok towards the south and catch a ferry when you arrive at the pier in the morning.
Getting around Koh Samui
Navigating around Koh Samui is easy as it is compact and driving around the whole island will take 1-3 hours depending on your mode of transport and stops along the way.
You really cannot get lost as there is only one single main road looping around the coast of the island. The heart of the island is inaccessible with dense rainforest and a mountainous landscape.
Public Transport on Koh Samui
Songtaews are shared taxis that circle the island on various routes and are most common to get around. They are converted pickup trucks that you will spot easily. Most of the time they will honk to get your attention as the drivers are looking for business.
Prices start from about 40 Baht per ride. Always better to go in a group as the price will drop. It also helps to know the rough price for a distance so the drivers won’t rip you off. Ask locals or other travelers on the island.
Hiring a Scooter/Car
I personally love hiring a scooter for a day or multiple days, it will cost you between 150 – 200 Baht (US$4-5.50). Alternatively, a Jeep is around 1,000 Baht and up (US$28+).
Petrol is cheap as anywhere in Thailand at about 40 Baht/liter. I recommend you do not drive on the island if you have no experience with scooters as it is fairly dangerous!
Getting a Visa for Thailand
Visitors from many countries, including Australia can enter Thailand without a visa for stays of up to 30 days under the Visa Exemption Rule. Always check the requirements for your nationality at the Thai Embassy.
If you want to stay longer, it’s easy to extend your visa in Koh Samui. The Thai Immigration is now in Maenam. At the time of writing a 30-day extension costs you 1,900 Baht. You must do so before your previous stay permit expires; otherwise, you will be fined 500 Baht for each day you overstay in Thailand.
Finding ATMs in Koh Samui
Money is never hard to get out as the island has plentiful ATMs pretty much anywhere. Koh Samui is definitely well-equipped to cater to tourists. Most ATMs can be found near popular beaches like Chaweng and Lamai, major shopping centers, and convenience stores such as 7-Eleven and Family Mart.
Hospitals in Koh Samui
In case you need to go to the hospital, several good ones cater to international tourists: Samui International Hospital, Thai International Bandon Hospital and Bangkok Samui Hospital. The latter I have also seen from inside after catching a nasty eye infection in Koh Phangan and they were all very professional with great English. In any case, if you have good health insurance, you should be fine, but I always recommend you get travel insurance!
Things to Do in Koh Samui
There’s no doubt, Koh Samui is a tropical paradise island and perfect for families with kids, couples on a honeymoon as well as solo travelers. There are plenty of activities, no matter which group you fall into.
Whether you’re seeking waterfall adventures, relaxation on the beach, or cultural experiences, the island has something for everyone. Below I have split Koh Samui into the 5 main areas, what they are all about and the best things to do in each.
Chaweng
Best for: Beautiful beaches, water sports, nightlife, shopping, being in the heart of it all.
The most developed and likewise the most touristy area is called Chaweng. Here, one big resort is lined up with the next with shops and restaurants in between. The beach is huge and truly beautiful, with white soft sand, azure warm water and the occasional wave depending on the weather, whereas other parts of the island are normally pretty flat.
At Chaweng Beach there is plenty of space to lay your towel or rent a beach chair, sip on a cocktail for US$3, take a beach walk or enjoy the many water activities like jet skiing, snorkeling, diving, and kayaking – the options are endless! You will spot the small booths offering various activities as you walk along the beach, you can just walk up to them.
Book your stay at one of the hotels directly at the beachfront as most of them have a pool to lounge around with fantastic views over the beach. And pretty much all of them offer romantic dinners on the sand at sunset time.
The nightlife is buzzing in Chaweng especially in the central part whereas the north and south are a little more quiet.
Chaweng is also home to the only big shopping mall on the island called Central Festival Samui. On Wednesdays, there is a small market with food, souvenirs and clothing stores in front of the mall starting from dusk around 5 pm into the late evening. It’s a great spot to grab a snack and have a browse around.
Additionally, there is a Walking Street Market including a big food offer just off the main street in South Chaweng which opens from 5.30 pm to midnight every day. Some other street stalls have lined up around the food stalls, selling beach dresses, t-shirts, souvenirs and bags in all shapes and sizes.
In the evening you can also find numerous permanent market stalls opening up along the main street of Chaweng which sell your typical souvenirs, sunglasses, elephant shirts and whatever else you want to take home.
Maybe one day you fancy doing something different than going to the beach, then I can recommend you take an authentic Thai cooking class in the area.
Lamai
Best for: Families with kids, lots of restaurants & bars, calm beach, slightly quieter area.
A little south of Chaweng is the town of Lamai. It is the second-largest beach after Chaweng. Driving down from Chaweng to Lamai you will inevitably recognize the spectacular scenery and soon you will pass Lad Koh viewpoint. Stop to enjoy the panorama over the island and grab an ice cream from the mobile kiosk.
Driving on you will pass Coral Cove, one of the best snorkeling spots on the island which is worth stopping. Also, check the Angthong National Marine Park if you want to spend some more time in and around the water snorkeling and sea kayaking.
Reaching Lamai beach you will find similar scenes like in Chaweng – music pumping from bars, restaurants and hotels aligned next to each other on the beachfront. The beach is a little less crowded and the food in the street behind it seems to be a bit cheaper than in central Chaweng. There is also a small night market on Sundays.
Towards the south of Lamai, you will find the natural wonders of Hin-Ta and Hin-Yai, also called Grandfather and Grandmother Rock. Those two rocks were naturally formed by the elements and look like male and female genitalia. Many tourists come here for a photo opportunity. Of course, the street leading up to the rocks is lined with souvenirs and food stalls.
Other things to do in the area include visiting one of the waterfalls which are signposted about 10-15 minutes out of Lamai driving along the main road to the right-hand side. The waterfalls are okay, not the prettiest in Thailand though.
I visited Na Muang Waterfall and didn’t even go for a swim as I didn’t think the water looked that great. In case you are keen on waterfalls though, check out where you can find all of them here.
Bohput/Fisherman’s Village (my fav!)
Best for: Culture, the biggest night market, rustic vibes, some of the best restaurants, romantic dinners on the beach.
The third biggest area is Bohput which is especially known for its’ cute Fisherman’s Village It’s my absolute favourite spot on the whole island. I remember the first time I came here and I immediately liked this little street with its wooden Chinese shop houses set right on the beach with many cafés, restaurants and little shops.
Fisherman’s Village has a very special rustic vibe and it’s great to hang out by the beach or go for a swim even though the water is not quite as clear as in Chaweng. It can be very quiet throughout the day but it sure gets more busy in the evening.
Admittedly, Fisherman’s Village is a little pricier especially when eating at the beachfront but you can find Happy Hours or keep your eye out on some 2-for-1 deals. There are quite a few spas along the street with fantastic views over the beach, in case you fancy a massage or pedicure.
I recommend coming here for the Night Market when the whole street is lined with small stalls. Come right at dusk and it’s less crowded as people will start flooding the market only after sunset. The Fishermans’ Village Night Market runs Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.
At the end of the main street of Fisherman’s Village, you will find The Wharf, a small beachfront shopping center that offers some more tasteful and unique but also pricier shopping opportunities. From here the ocean combined with the retro architecture has something close to the Mediterranean I think.
On special occasions like Songkran or other festivals, this is probably one of the places you want to come to as events are frequently arranged around here. Keep an eye on the local calendar!
The food court in the middle of The Wharf will soon take you from the Mediterranean feel back to Thailand as there is a good variety of stands selling authentic Thai food, some international goodies as well as pasta and steak for the one craving Western food. Prices are surprisingly cheap and you can get a full Thai meal for around US$2-3. Prices at the beachfront start from about US$5-6 for Thai meals and are again more expensive for Western food.
Bang Rak
Best for: close to the Big Buddha, more authentic and local, smaller boutique resorts along the beachfront.
Bang Rak Beach sits right between Bohput and the Big Buddha temple. I would consider it to be a more local beach since I’ve seen many local families coming here to have a meal, swim or make a bond fire.
It’s great for a swim and the sand is very white while there are enough palm trees to give you some shade to lie on the beach. Further towards the East of the beach, there are a few smaller resorts.
The main attraction around here is the Big Buddha temple (Wat Phra Yai). The 12-meter-high golden Buddha can be spotted from several locations around the island and it sure is impressive.
On the bottom surrounding the statue is a courtyard where you can find numerous vendors selling amulets, clothing and religious artifacts as well as food including ice cream. Remember to dress appropriately and cover your shoulders and knees as the temple is a sacred place!
While I think the Big Buddha is nice to have a look at, there are more impressive temples in Thailand. For me, the really amazing thing is the view you get from the top after you climb the staircase which is framed with a colorful dragon that leads to the platform where the Buddha has taken a seat.
Most days you can spot planes approaching Koh Samui Airport which is 3km from here and they fly quite low over the beach. Keep that also in mind when planning to lie down at the beach. However, this is only the case in the eastern part towards the Big Buddha, the rest of the beach is fine and you cannot hear or see any airplanes going over your head.
Close by is also Bang Rak Pier where you can catch a ferry over to the island of Koh Phangan. The boats for the monthly Full Moon Party also leave from here.
Also, read my full decision-making guide if you’re wondering if Koh Phangan is better than Koh Samui.
Nathon
Best for: Main port, Thai culture, the best sunsets, quieter side of the island.
Nathon is the industrial center of the island and the main ferry port so you will most likely arrive here when taking the ferry from the mainland. Out of all the places on the island, Nathon is probably still the most original town inheriting some Thai feeling whereas all the other towns are much more cosmopolitanized and Thai culture is not very apparent anymore.
This side of the island is known for its fantastic sunsets and that is for a reason. They are nothing but spectacular!
South of Nathon is also home to the famous Nikki Beach Club Resort & Spa. On Sundays, they hold a massive brunch which includes lounging in the pool with awesome music, tanning in the sun chairs or swimming in the calm waters of Lipa Noi beach. The brunch starts at 12 pm until 4 pm, so try and eat A LOT before they close the buffet. The sunset is normally around 6.30 pm.
It’s definitely worth it on a special occasion (I celebrated Easter there) as the buffet is huge and probably the best on the island serving anything from seafood, veggies, crepe, sushi, including an omelet and carving station as well as pasta and Thai specialties, not to speak about the huge desert buffet!
There are a lot of families going there so it doesn’t go hyper-crazy like at other Nikki Beach Club locations around the world. Check their website for all info.
Where to Eat in Koh Samui: Best Cafés & Restaurants
In general, I am not a big fan of tourist traps and crowded restaurants full of farangs (Thai for foreigners), so I tend to opt for locally owned and operated restaurants, where Thai people still cook the meals and benefit from my visit.
Having lived quite close to Fisherman’s Village, here are a few choices I like to eat at in this area plus some others around the island. Most of the cafes listed have Internet all that I have seen and tried with my own eyes.
Coffee Club in Chaweng – Coffee Club is a large Australian coffee shop franchise that I quite like. There are two Coffee Clubs on the island, one at Central Festival Mall and the other a little further up on Chaweng Beach Road. While the latter is quite large with two levels, they both provide wifi upon purchasing a drink or food. They both have air-con however some days they have the doors wide open and don’t turn the air-con on, depending on the season.
Art Cafe by June in Bohput and Nathon – June Art Café is located on the main Ring Road not far from the turnoff/traffic lights from Bohput Beach traveling south towards Chaweng, you can check the exact location here. There’s Wi-Fi unfortunately only fans but they serve organic food which is super fresh and has some gluten-free options too. I love the cafés arty interior.
Coffee Cup in Bang Rak – Eat, drink great coffee, check your emails over the free Wi-Fi, at Coffee Cup, you can do it all. However no air-con again. The café is located right opposite Petcharat Pier on Bang Rak Beach and it’s not so easy to spot when driving past so look closely on the right-hand side driving towards the Big Buddha (this is the Google Maps location).
Starbucks – I kid you not. It’s such a cliché, I know, foreigners searching for the nearest Starbucks. And I have to tell you, there are 2 on the island. The one right at Central Festival in Chaweng has a great big space on the 2nd level with plenty of chairs, tables and most of all: air-con! It was never crowded when I visited. The only thing is the Wi-Fi: You have to register to use the Wi-Fi at Starbucks and even then sometimes it’s shaky.
An easier and cheaper way to get Wi-Fi is to make use of the existing Wi-Fi hotspots at the shopping mall by one of the mobile service providers in Thailand. Both TrueMove or AIS Wi-Fi hotspots can be accessed from here, so you just need to sign up for a cheap data package with them or use the initial 10-hour gratis for a start.
Alternatively, get yourself an eSIM and you’ll be sweet! I have used Holafly before they offer unlimited Internet. Just read the fine print as sharing data is limited on this one.
Black Canyon Coffee – If you are craving some Black Canyon Coffee (yes, I am a fan too), head to Tesco Lotus in either Chaweng, Lamai and Nathon as they all have one as part of the shopping center. There is also one at the Central Festival Mall on the second floor. The coffee is good, but it’s not the cheapest. Wi-Fi access upon purchase.
The Sunset in Bang Rak – Probably my favourite spot to work from on the island. It’s not only cool at sunset but indeed throughout the whole day. It’s actually within walking distance from the Big Buddha temple, you will spot it to the left of the gate before entering the road leading up to the Buddha. If you manage to grab a seat in the front row you will sit in the middle of paradise. It’s shady enough to see your computer screen still and breezy enough to not melt away. Plus they have free Wi-Fi and coffee is decently priced.
The Villagian in Fisherman’s Village – Another one of my favourites! It’s just awesome sitting beneath this massive map and progressing on work. I have found little evidence online so far that this place even exists, but you will spot it when walking from the main entrance of Fisherman’s Village through the big gate about halfway through the street towards the pier you shall spot this café on the right. Opposite is an Indian Restaurant and you most likely get distracted by the Indian guy luring you into his restaurant (and yes, they have great food but more on that later…) while walking past.
Hacienda Hotel in Fisherman’s Village – In the row along the beachfront is the Hacienda Hotel. While hunting for an apartment on Koh Samui I walked into this hotel to ask for directions and the staff was super friendly. Ever since I’ve been back a few times in the morning where they serve a lovely breakfast with a view and their coffee prices are great starting from 50 Baht. They have free Wi-Fi when you purchase something and after the hotel guests have had their breakfast there is hardly anyone there. Additionally, it is very breezy as it’s right on the beach and very open and light.
Deepawali Fine Indian Restaurant at Fisherman’s Village – A great place for an Indian meal right in Fisherman’s Village, it’s budget-friendly and usually not overly crowded.
The Wharf Food Court – At the end of Fisherman’s Village main street right in the heart of The Wharf, is another boutique shopping establishment, with a food court that is surprisingly cheap. You can find Thai meals, International cuisine, curry dishes and some Western delights.
The Hut at Fisherman’s Village – The Hut is quite crowded around lunchtime as the food is not only tasty but also really good value. They offer delicious Thai food as well as fusion dishes like spaghetti with Penang Curry, which is a really tasty combination. The fruit shakes are also great. Wi-Fi available.
Welcome Wathinee at Fisherman’s Village – Sort of across the street from The Hut on the left corner at the end of the street which also marks the end of Fisherman’s Village. Serves good Thai food for affordable prices. Try the green curry or broccoli chicken! You should spot it easily in the evening as it is normally crowded with people.
Gringos Cantina in Chaweng – If you are carving Mexican Food, go to Gringos Cantina just off into a side alley of the main road in Chaweng. It takes some good eyes to spot the place even though they have a huge sign. The street the restaurant is located in is quite small, but look for the Islander Bar, it’s right behind there. Prices are reasonable for the proportions you get and it’s tasty. I always go for the margaritas too!
If you are looking for more options on great local food, check out this site to find places to eat as well as I am simply using Google, however, sometimes places are outdated and those that are listed have vanished. Look for the last review and if it’s been some time since the last one, you can be almost sure the place has disappeared.
Big C, Makro, Tesco, the island’s got it all. I like Tesco the best while Makro has the best wholesale offers. I tend to go to smaller markets for fruit and vegetable shopping. My favourite one is Bohput Market, it’s to the right after the traffic lights turning left from Fisherman’s Village towards Chaweng, there is a big sign and you will spot the Thai market atmosphere. Mostly happening in the afternoon. Mango Sticky Rice costs 30 THB instead of 180 THB at the beachfront of Bohput.
For more upmarket and brand shopping go to Central Festival Mall in the heart of Chaweng.
There is a night market every night of the week in a different place around the island. Check here for the schedule. However, the best shopping for souvenirs is at the Night Market at Fisherman’s Village. In Chaweng you have plenty of small markets and shops that are open every night. I also like the market outside of Central Festival Mall every Wednesday evening.
7/11 and Family Mart are the most common convenience stores on the island and can literally be found on every corner, especially in the touristy areas.
Where to Stay in Koh Samui
If you’re looking to book your hotel, Bophut Beach and particularly around the Fisherman’s Village is my top choice! It’s perfect if you’re seeking a blend of traditional Thai culture and modern boutique resorts set along quaint streets and chic boutiques.
Chaweng, the largest and busiest town in Koh Samui and is ideal if you’re looking for lively beach parties, nightlife and a busy atmosphere. For a more relaxed family-friendly vibe, Lamai Beach has calmer waters and spread out resorts.
Best Hotels in Bophut Beach/Fisherman’s Village
Luxury: Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort – Rooms with Southern Thai décor, scenic views, a spa, and right on the beachfront. Check availability
Mid-Range: Peace Resort Samui – Stay in modern bungalows or opt for a beachfront villa with a private pool, so boujee! Check availability
Budget: Smile House – Located in the charming Fisherman’s Village with easy access to the beach just across the road. They have a nice pool right outside the traditional Thai bungalows surrounded by breezy palm trees. Check availability
Best Hotels in Chaweng Beach
Luxury: Sala Samui Chaweng Beach – Ultimate beachfront hotel with modern amenities, rooms come with private balconies or terraces and there are two beachfront pools for kids and adults. Check availability
Mid-Range: Banana Fan Sea Resort – Beachfront villas and dining in the sand. Great location with good breakfast and a stunning pool overlooking the ocean. Check availability
Budget: Montien House – In the heart of Chaweng yet in a quiet location surrounded by tropical gardens is Montien House. It’s directly beachfront with a pool and restaurant facing the sea and walking distance to all the action of the main street. Check availability
Alternative: Rent an Apartment in Koh Samui
If you are thinking of sticking around the island for longer I can recommend renting an apartment or at least negotiating a rate for your room in a hotel. In high season it will be harder to find a good deal and hotels won’t offer monthly rates and only charge by the night.
I lived at Replay Residences Samui which is a modern apartment complex across from Bang Rak beach and a 10-minute walk into beautiful Fisherman’s Village and Bohput Beach. It’s a 10-15 minute drive from busy Chaweng.
The complex has a big pool, gym and tennis court. There are different types of studios and apartments on offer and you can directly ask the reception for their current availability and they will show you around.
Sometimes there are offers from private owners too which might be a little cheaper and mostly pop up in the various Facebook groups, just keep your eyes open.
Connecting with other Travellers And Nomads
I am a big fan of local Facebook groups, no matter if it’s for finding apartments, things for your home or connecting with like-minded people. I tend to just put my location into the search field and see what Facebook comes up with and join the groups I find interesting.
I have found my apartment like that on the island and sold a blender for making fruit smoothies which I originally bought on Koh Phangan as I liked the idea of fresh home-made smoothies. For Koh Samui, there is also a Digital Nomads group which is quite small and only becomes active depending on the season.
Koh Samui Travel Guide – Frequently Asked Questions
Is Koh Samui expensive?
Of course, Koh Samui is not Chiang Mai, it is an island and everything needs to be shipped to the island which makes it more expensive on average.
Is there good Internet in Koh Samui?
There are plenty of cafés and restaurants to chill. Most of them have Wi-Fi, and so do almost all hotels, with some exceptions. For me, the Internet was always speedy enough (average 5-10 Mbps) whereas power outages do occur (to my surprise) frequently especially when bad weather is rolling over the island. There is also good mobile reception around the island.
Which is better: Chaweng or Lamai Beach?
Chaweng Beach is a better place to stay if you’re after a lively atmosphere including nightlife, numerous dining options, and bustling beach activities. Lamai Beach is more laid-back and family-friendly, with calmer waters and less crowded beaches.
Koh Samui Travel Guide – Final Words
Koh Samui is a stunning island in Thailand with tropical beauty, cultural charm, and modern resorts. Whether you’re drawn to the lively nightlife of Chaweng, the calmer beaches of Lamai, or the cultural richness of areas like Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village, this island is a great choice for solo, couple and family travels alike.
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